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Theatre!!

 

Italians just have that knack to make everything into theatre. Take yesterday. There was the usual battle negotiating the 'Recordo' to do a drop-off at Perugia airport ( why do they call it the 'Recordo' ? I'm not even sure it is spelt that way having only ever heard the word and not seen it written. Maybe someone can enlighten me??) I can think of several other words to descibe it and none of them printable!

Yesterday we had the expected traffic jam, this time caused by an altercation between two vehicles and accentuated by this guy making a meal out of diverting the traffic and nearly getting himself run down in the process! It was the full performance! Arms waving madly he addressed each individual car at full volume, virtually throwing himself over the bonnets! I suppose a few cones and arrows would have been too tame!

The other side of the road wasn't much better. A great clog of traffic so I decided to delay my return and drove down to the town of Foligno. I haven't been there since a visit in my teens with my mum and dad so didn't really remember much about it. Its quite a big town and being pretty useless when it comes to directions I was really pleased with myself on finding a parking slot in a side road just five minutes from the main square. Wasn't quite as good on the way out! I must have circuited the same area about five times plus I went down a bus route and there was a police car in the area.

Foligno is a large modern town but it has a beautiful old centre. Originally an Umbrian settlement it was conquered by the Romans and the town plan based on a gridiron pattern of streets dates back to this period.
It was stunning walking from the narrow, often shabby streets decorated with ribbons and flags into the two main piazzas flanked by their majestic buildings. Such a contrast! The Duomo (cathedral) built at the beginning of the 12th century has two facades. One looks onto the Piazza del Duomo and the other (Romanesque in style) onto the Piazza della Repubblica.

Piazza del Duomo

Detail of Duomo

There are also many beautiful churches. The one above is the church of St. Francis with this worn but lovely fresco exposed above the door .

Below is the interior of the Church of St. Francis.

I will be making Foligno one of my favourite stop-offs when trying to avoid traffic jams in future and not just because I enjoyed the sights !
 
 
I found a wonderful patisserie cum bar (Bar Pasticceria dei Marchese) where everything is baked on the premises and which has the most delicious cakes ever! Stopping for a San Bitter I was stunned to find it came with a mountain of warm breads (Focaccia). They were all delicious but I particularly liked the Sfoglia al pomodoro. So much so that I bought a whole one to take home (€1.20) plus an exquisite fruit tart with melt in the mouth pastry filled with creamy soft custard and topped with fresh black grapes and slices of kiwi. My bill including the drink came to less than €5 and the service was great.

 

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Theatre!!

 

Italians just have that knack to make everything into theatre. Take yesterday. There was the usual battle negotiating the 'Recordo' to do a drop-off at Perugia airport ( why do they call it the 'Recordo' ? I'm not even sure it is spelt that way having only ever heard the word and not seen it written. Maybe someone can enlighten me??) I can think of several other words to descibe it and none of them printable!

Yesterday we had the expected traffic jam, this time caused by an altercation between two vehicles and accentuated by this guy making a meal out of diverting the traffic and nearly getting himself run down in the process! It was the full performance! Arms waving madly he addressed each individual car at full volume, virtually throwing himself over the bonnets! I suppose a few cones and arrows would have been too tame!

The other side of the road wasn't much better. A great clog of traffic so I decided to delay my return and drove down to the town of Foligno. I haven't been there since a visit in my teens with my mum and dad so didn't really remember much about it. Its quite a big town and being pretty useless when it comes to directions I was really pleased with myself on finding a parking slot in a side road just five minutes from the main square. Wasn't quite as good on the way out! I must have circuited the same area about five times plus I went down a bus route and there was a police car in the area.

Foligno is a large modern town but it has a beautiful old centre. Originally an Umbrian settlement it was conquered by the Romans and the town plan based on a gridiron pattern of streets dates back to this period.
It was stunning walking from the narrow, often shabby streets decorated with ribbons and flags into the two main piazzas flanked by their majestic buildings. Such a contrast! The Duomo (cathedral) built at the beginning of the 12th century has two facades. One looks onto the Piazza del Duomo and the other (Romanesque in style) onto the Piazza della Repubblica.

Piazza del Duomo

Detail of Duomo

There are also many beautiful churches. The one above is the church of St. Francis with this worn but lovely fresco exposed above the door .

Below is the interior of the Church of St. Francis.

I will be making Foligno one of my favourite stop-offs when trying to avoid traffic jams in future and not just because I enjoyed the sights !
 
 
I found a wonderful patisserie cum bar (Bar Pasticceria dei Marchese) where everything is baked on the premises and which has the most delicious cakes ever! Stopping for a San Bitter I was stunned to find it came with a mountain of warm breads (Focaccia). They were all delicious but I particularly liked the Sfoglia al pomodoro. So much so that I bought a whole one to take home (€1.20) plus an exquisite fruit tart with melt in the mouth pastry filled with creamy soft custard and topped with fresh black grapes and slices of kiwi. My bill including the drink came to less than €5 and the service was great.

 

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Great new Painting Location!

 

Spello, on the slopes of Mount Subasio is one of my favourite places. Near Assisi it shines out from the mountainside like a jewel.

A veritable rabbit-warren of twisting and turning streets, arches, flowers and crooked houses, the town offers a multitude of painting opportunities.

 

On our recent visit we had dinner at the restaurant belonging to the Albergo Il Cacciatore which has the most beautiful and extensive open terrace with amazing views just perfect as a painting location and perfect for those artists wishing to bring their groups on an excursion to Spello.

We were really impressed with both the service and the food. There is an extensive menu which includes a selection of pasta made on the premises and they serve locally produced olive oil and wine. Both delicious.

We chose Bruschetta followed by Pollo Cacciatore. One of the best I have ever tasted! The contorni consisted of tiny stuffed courgettes and tomatoes, sprinkled with Parmesan and crispy roast potatoes.

We now can spend a few hours exploring this beautiful town before setting up easels on the terrace for a Plein Air session. The day ending delightfully enjoying a delicious meal overlooking the views we have just captured!

 

 

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Melanzane Parmigiana

A great supper dish served with crusty bread and a green salad!

I must say a big 'thank you' to my good friend Chiara for introducing me to this dish. She suggested that we order it when out for lunch in Saronno and I loved its combination of rich flavours. It is a dish Chiara's mother made extremely well so I feel very honoured to have this recipe passed on to me.

Luckily the recipe works well using a microwave with combination grill as I can't cook it 'Al Forno' being minus an oven!!

It's a dish which you can make in advance (even the previous day) and then just pop into the oven when guests are expected.

This recipe is for two.

1 large aubergine

1 large onion (ordinary not red)

1 small red pepper. I tin of finely chopped good quality tomatoes.

Mozzarella cheese and grated Parmesan and about 3 teaspoons or red Pesto.

2 large cloves of garlic, herbs, (oregano, thyme and pepperoncini)

Slice aubergine about sliced bread thickness. Sprinkle with a little salt and leave for an hour till water rises then dry on kitchen towel. Fry slices gently in olive oil (only a little) till tender and just slightly charred not burnt!

Chop onion and garlic finely and sauté gently in a tablespoon of olive oil and the pesto for about 5 mins. Add chopped red pepper and herbs and the tin of finely chopped tomatoes. Cook until it thickens .

Slice mozzarella cheese into chunks.

Then layer. First 1/3 aubergine slices then 1/3 sauce then 1/3 mozzarella and sprinkle with Parmesan .

Repeat so you have 3 layers finishing with Mozzarella and Parmesan.

Ready to pop into the oven.

I then leave it for an hour or more to settle before ideally baking in an oven (200deg) till the cheese has melted and slightly golden which will be about 20 minutes. If, like me, you have no oven then simply cook in microwave on medium high for about 10 minutes and then finish on combination setting till melted and golden (about ten minutes). Microwaves do vary so you will need to keep testing.

Delicious!

 

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Summer’s back!

6.45am

Sat eating breakfast, with windows wide open, watching the mist rising over the hills revealing a beautiful blue sky.

Summer never really went by UK standards but a drop to 26/27C and a few storms come as a bit of a shock after melting in the lower 40's! But, here we are again with lovely blue skies, sunshine and a much more bearable temperature around 30C.

Popped into Passignano yesterday morning, as is becoming my routine, for a walk, coffee and chat (nearly always bump into someone I know) Also i just love that wonderful drive down the hill! I am SO glad we brought my car over! It is such fun negotiating the hairpins unless, of course, there is some idiot in my boot! Fortunately, I rarely see any other cars. In fact tootling around our quiet roads is a dream. I'm not sure how I am going to cope with the endless traffic jams on my trips back to the UK!

Tonight is the first of four nights of the Festa della Padella (Festival of the pan) when the world's largest frying pan will fry a huge ten tons of fish an hour fuelled by lots of burners underneath. The area around this pan was very busy yesterday morning with men checking the burners but the swans appeared oblivious as they sat and preened themselves!

The trawler was out cleaning the weeds from the lake although, this year it is at its highest since the 1980's and is really great for swimming and water sports plus it looks amazing.

It would have been a perfect on the beach but unfortunately I had to get back because a plumber was coming in the afternoon. Nothing major. Just irritating, especially when we have visitors. We are having to turn off the water before going to bed or leaving the house. Not a big deal? Except that we sleep on the top floor of three and the water tap is on the bottom floor down two spiral staircases. Recently I had three weeks of creeping down in the early morning trying not to wake daughter and partner whilst negotiating (in the dark) a hanging suit case and bravely sticking my hand into the cupboard to locate the tap. I say 'bravely' because we call this particular cupboard 'Casa dello scorpione'!

As it happens, I could have stayed on the beach because the plumber didn't arrive! I did enjoy an afternoon working on my mural on the bottom floor which I think is definitely going to take over the entire wall! Really must buy some paint in case the whole thing goes dreadfully wrong!

 

Ready for the oven!

Made a Melanzane Parmigiana ready for friends who were expected for dinner. It works ok in our combination microwave which is a relief since I don't have an oven. I followed a Recipe from good friend Chiara and will share this in the next blog!

The Internet was really bad yesterday afternoon so after hanging out of every window in the house trying to Skype my mum I just gave up and didn't look at my iPad again till early evening which is unheard of! It could also have been disastrous as poor Francesco (who was coming to dinner) had been madly emailing asking for our address! Still, all worked out well in the end and we had a delightful evening.

Today? Definitely a walk and some of this glorious sunshine!

Later we are going into Castiglione for a meeting with our architect and so will stay and eat at 'La Cantina'.

I really must arrange some Italian lessons too!


 

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Market Day at Castiglione

The summer holiday season is coming to an end and the market today was nearly back to its normal relaxed pace minus the tourists. We enjoyed a lovely couple of hours chatting with friends over a coffee before a wander round the stalls

I could have spent quite a lot of money on clothes today as there were many end of season reductions but resisted the urge coming away with only one skirt costing €15. The economising was probably more due to lack of actual cash (no cards taken) than will-power! Maybe I will visit the Saturday market at Passignano and have another look!

It is a beautiful warm, sunny morning. The searing heat of early August has subsided leaving a comfortable 25/26C and we can sit outside comfortably without feeling like limp rags! It was heavenly strolling through the olive groves behind the Rocca and I'm writing this sat in my favourite place looking out over the lake with cicadas chattering but not as loudly now as earlier in the summer. I'm just wishing I had brought my sketch pad as these ancient, twisted trunks are just reaching out and wanting to be drawn! Still, its such a lovely feeling knowing that there's always tomorrow, and next week and the rest of September to put the memories down on paper.

Couldn't resist taking this with the church bells pealing away in the background!

 

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Palio dei Terzieri

 

The Borgo Dentro drummers featured beneath the Casilino flags.

Yesterday (25thAugust) was the final day of the Citta della Pieve festival and the grand and very entertaining 'Historical Procession.

The weather was very unseasonal. A storm earlier left it much cooler although I still can't understand how Italians can wear jeans, boots and cardigans in a temperature similar to a UK summer day! (25C).

Although we love this event, it is normally a kind of endurance test involving standing for about one and a half hours in sweltering heat followed by dashing through crowds to shoot last minute photographs. Today it was bliss!

Citta della Pieve, like many of these Umbrian towns, is divided into three areas or Terzieri , (Borgo Dentro, Casilino, Castello.). During the festival week the ancient disputes dating back to the Middle Ages are replayed. It's all very reminiscent of Romeo and Juliet with feuding families! Challenges, theatrical and musical performances can be seen every evening. These, typical of Italy, start very late (often at 21.30,) and each area also has a Tavern where food is served.

My favourite area is the Borgo Dentro! I like the red and blue costumes and they also seem to be the loudest and most spectacular in the parade with their canon which, yesterday went off directly in front of us so watch out for the huge bang in the video!
The costumes in the procession are magnificent! I should imagine the people wearing them were pleased with the cooler temperatures yesterday too!
Bringing up the rear are the oxen. Such magnificent and placid beasts!

When the procession reaches its destination in the square the rival areas enjoy a final battle with bags of flour! Then it all has to be swept away for another year. A thoroughly enjoyable afternoon and one festival I would definitely recommend even if it is sunny and 35C!

Below …… the cleaning up!

Below are some snippets of video (the noisy bits!)

….and this is a slideshow of the procession showing the beautiful costumes, and other stills.

 

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Mono-rail,Splintered Glass and Pigeons!

 

Perugia

Friday

Today has been a fun day! Lots of the 'unexpected' and some scares all of which made what could have been a pretty boring 'business' excursion quite entertaining!

It started off with some crazy driving. This, of course, is an everyday occurrence and not at all unusual but, today's stunt, even by Italian standards was truly gobsmacking! My favourite fairground ride was always the 'Dodgems' and I shall be eternally grateful for the experience gained! You certainly need it on Italian roads with motorbikes leaning at 25 degrees onto your lane and cars cornering on the wrong side. There we were today, happily driving down the hill having shaken this huge truck off our boot, when suddenly this tractor coming up the hill attempts to turn left right in front of us! Thought that was the car well and truly written off. Probably us as well.,(Glad it was the MG!) Luckily evasive action worked and we made it to Perugia!

We had anticipated that our appointments in Perugia would be in the centre but had to change plans after discovering they were a long way outside the town.,This turned out to be an unexpected pleasure as we used the Mono-Rail to reach the centre later. I've been wanting to go on this for years but it has always seemed more convenient to drive. Great fun! Well, it was once we had bought the tickets. The machine couldn't digest notes and didn't like cards or even some coins so it took rather a long time. Well worth the fuss though as it was much more fun than a hot drive into Perugia centro with horns blaring. I took a video which I shall process and post when I have time.

If you can't beat them ….. join them! We tried out some crazy parking!

Being desperate for refreshment we ordered drinks in a bar in the centre choosing to drink at the bar since another €1.50 was being added for the use of a table and we weren't wanting a leisurely stay. The girls were quite entertaining, singing occasional notes to the music and dancing whilst making a 'Shakerato'. Mike's cappuccino had just been prepared, 'bolento' as requested when one of the waitresses dropped a couple of beer glasses which exploded covering everything, everyone and Mikes coffee in a shower of splinters! Quite spectacular!

We were running late after the ticket fiasco and the glass shower so Mike went off to the second meeting whilst I wandered around taking photos for an artist who wanted an excursion to Perugia during her painting holiday. I finally ended up in my favourite bar for a beer and the use of the WiFi to catch up with work. I really like this bar. The BEST view and really friendly staff. It's always really quiet in the afternoons and there are comfy chairs and sofas. The prices are reasonable AND they don't charge any extra for sitting down!

Today I explored the residential areas outside the main streets of Perugia. It was extremely interesting and such a contrast to the majestic finery of the Main Street and square. A bit spooky (even I wouldn't wander around these streets after dark) but the narrow dark streets flanked by towering buildings, old archways and crumbling walls were really beautiful.

It's now 4.45pm and I'm now fending off several pigeons (my own fault for throwing them a few nuts!).

…… and back home later. A perfect end to a fun day!

Tomorrow? …. must pop to the market in Passignano, paint the plastered bit of the beam in the kitchen and the new piece of wood on the front door and then its off to the Folk Festival in Orvieto in the late afternoon.

 

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Mono-rail,Splintered Glass and Pigeons!

 

Perugia

Friday

Today has been a fun day! Lots of the 'unexpected' and some scares all of which made what could have been a pretty boring 'business' excursion quite entertaining!

It started off with some crazy driving. This, of course, is an everyday occurrence and not at all unusual but, today's stunt, even by Italian standards was truly gobsmacking! My favourite fairground ride was always the 'Dodgems' and I shall be eternally grateful for the experience gained! You certainly need it on Italian roads with motorbikes leaning at 25 degrees onto your lane and cars cornering on the wrong side. There we were today, happily driving down the hill having shaken this huge truck off our boot, when suddenly this tractor coming up the hill attempts to turn left right in front of us! Thought that was the car well and truly written off. Probably us as well.,(Glad it was the MG!) Luckily evasive action worked and we made it to Perugia!

We had anticipated that our appointments in Perugia would be in the centre but had to change plans after discovering they were a long way outside the town.,This turned out to be an unexpected pleasure as we used the Mono-Rail to reach the centre later. I've been wanting to go on this for years but it has always seemed more convenient to drive. Great fun! Well, it was once we had bought the tickets. The machine couldn't digest notes and didn't like cards or even some coins so it took rather a long time. Well worth the fuss though as it was much more fun than a hot drive into Perugia centro with horns blaring. I took a video which I shall process and post when I have time.

If you can't beat them ….. join them! We tried out some crazy parking!

Being desperate for refreshment we ordered drinks in a bar in the centre choosing to drink at the bar since another €1.50 was being added for the use of a table and we weren't wanting a leisurely stay. The girls were quite entertaining, singing occasional notes to the music and dancing whilst making a 'Shakerato'. Mike's cappuccino had just been prepared, 'bolento' as requested when one of the waitresses dropped a couple of beer glasses which exploded covering everything, everyone and Mikes coffee in a shower of splinters! Quite spectacular!

We were running late after the ticket fiasco and the glass shower so Mike went off to the second meeting whilst I wandered around taking photos for an artist who wanted an excursion to Perugia during her painting holiday. I finally ended up in my favourite bar for a beer and the use of the WiFi to catch up with work. I really like this bar. The BEST view and really friendly staff. It's always really quiet in the afternoons and there are comfy chairs and sofas. The prices are reasonable AND they don't charge any extra for sitting down!

Today I explored the residential areas outside the main streets of Perugia. It was extremely interesting and such a contrast to the majestic finery of the Main Street and square. A bit spooky (even I wouldn't wander around these streets after dark) but the narrow dark streets flanked by towering buildings, old archways and crumbling walls were really beautiful.

It's now 4.45pm and I'm now fending off several pigeons (my own fault for throwing them a few nuts!).

…… and back home later. A perfect end to a fun day!

Tomorrow? …. must pop to the market in Passignano, paint the plastered bit of the beam in the kitchen and the new piece of wood on the front door and then its off to the Folk Festival in Orvieto in the late afternoon.

 

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Castiglione del Lago

Thursday

A pretty uneventful day! The usual chores of washing and cleaning and then a mad rush to get the steps swept before the arrival of our 'Guzzling monster'! A great system although I'm not so sure it needs to be done so often! The 'monster' is preceded by a man with brush who sweeps out all the difficult little nooks and crannies that the monster can't reach. We always need to warn guest about its arrival as they are on the bottom floor and this 'monster' makes a terrific noise in addition to blocking out all the light! They would probably think it was the Apocalypse!

 
Then it was walk time. These daily walks are a kind of a cross between work and pleasure (and exercise) or maybe I should say its an extremely pleasurable type of work since I love walking, love exploring and love taking photographs and sketching! There are so many walks and so many painting locations that I like to visit them all in the different seasons to keep a good photographic record for my artists and students who visit at different times of the year. Some locations are beautiful no matter what the season. Others are not and its vitally important to know which ones to recommend.
'Today's walk took me down the Passignano road and the little lane just before the 'Artist's Village'. This views were beautiful in Spring and equally so today with cornfields dotted with bales of hay, farmhouses on the hill and lovely views across the lake.

After lunch we had business meetings in Castiglione but managed a short walk around this enchanting town which was very quiet, baked in the hot afternoon sunlight. Castiglione will always have a special place in my heart because my Dad was stationed here during the war and I also camped on Lido Trasimeno with my parents and later with my own family for many years before buying our house. .

On the way home we called for some fresh fish at the Coop (had a yearning for salmon!) Not something one consumes as regularly as in the UK as it costs at least 50% more but just got to have it occasionally!