Day: October 21, 2013

by

A photo tour of Isola Maggiore

We usually catch the ferry from Passignano. Some ferries go directly to Isola Maggiore whilst others stop first at Tuoro. The price is usually the same (around €6 for a return). and it takes about 25 minutes. It is a really lovely trip. So relaxing and probably the only time the sheer enormity and beauty of Lake Trasmeno can be appreciated.


From the back of the boat there is a lovely view of Passignano .
I

The first stop on the island should be a bar for a coffee or beer or gelato ! There is only one main street, Via Guglielmi paved in bricks and lined with buildings dating back to the 12th Century. I always turn right onto this Main Street and visit the first bar on the right where there is a beautiful garden with tables leading right down to the lake. It is also a lovely friendly bar, the coffee and gelato is good and the prices normal, not inflated and no different rates for seating. All prices are displayed clearly at the entrance.

After a pleasant break and refreshment it is a good time to stroll up and down Via Guglielmi, noting the buildings and visiting the lace museum and the Chiesa Buon Gesu, opposite. If you are lucky, and usually late afternoon you may see some of the remaining lace-makers at work. This lace was considered to be of such high quality that it was worn by Queen Margherita of Savoy.

A walk to the right up the Main Street takes you quickly into woodland paths rich in flora and fauna.
There are three churches and a castle (Guglielmi Castle) in the island. Unfortunately the castle is in disrepair and can't be visited. The churches, on the other hand are small and enchanting.
At the highest point of the island is the Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo containing lovely paintings by the school of Giotto and Cimabue.
In the early 13th Century, St.Francis of Assisi spent his Lentern fast period of forty days on Isola Maggiore and visitors can see the stone where he first set foot on the island and a tiny chapel built on the site of the cave in which he slept.
There are many paths around the island . The 2km. Lungo Lago walk around the perimeter is probably the easiest and most popular through pine and oak woods but I love to move away from the set paths and scrabble up the many stepped trails surprising pheasants and rabbits and, in the autumn discovering a interesting collection of fungi.
 
The island is a captivating and tranquil place steeped in history with beautiful artistic relics set in beautiful unspoilt, natural surroundings. In Spring, Summer or Autumn it is perfect for a relaxing day out. Take a picnic lunch or enjoy a meal at one of the lakeside restaurants but, if this is going to be your one and only visit, do make sure you sail back to Passignano at sunset. An unforgettable experience!!

 

 

 

 

by

Lace Making on Isola Maggiore.

The art of Irish Lace Making also called Irish Crochet, was introduced to Isola Maggiore in the early 19th Century at around the same time as an embroidery school was set up in Passignano.

The island women picked up this intricate craft easily because they were so experienced in the weaving and mending of fishing nets. The open-work designs are made with a fine steel crochet hook and linen thread.

Over the thirty years or so that I have visited the island I have seen the number of lace-makers dwindle and on our last visit a couple of days ago there were only three. Not really surprising when the whole population totals only 35!

Below is a link to a video explaining the process.